Il Pirata delle Cinque Terre

I promised to start todays block with our dinner at the Pirate Bar (Breakfast & other foods the sign says on the building) so here we go.

If you have done any research on Cinque Terre and/or Vernazza, you most likely will have heard of this restaurant.  It is high up on Trip Advisors list of things to do in Vernazza, and Rick Steves sings their praises in his guide book.  Anywhere you go in The Cinque Terre you will see Trip Advisor stickers in windows or a copy of Rick Steves travel guide book on the counter.  Italians in this region are quick to pull out the R.S. Guide and show you a favorite quote or in the case of the brothers that run Il Pirata, they have the page dog-eared as they are always whipping it out to show a customer what was said about them by Mr. Steves.

A little background before we get to dinner.  CJS & I had agreed to pack light and only take enough clothes for about 1/2 the trip.  We had read there was a Lavanderia Rapida (a coin Laundry) in Vernazza.   So we went in search of it, so we would know where to go when we wanted to do our wash.  What we found delighted us - the Lavanderia was right next to Il Pirata!  It was late afternoon, so we decided to go in to the restaurant and look around.  We ran in to one of the two owners, Massimo, as soon as we walked in.  He was quite chatty and ready to take care of us right then.  We told him we wanted to come back for dinner and he said we would need a reservation, and told us to come back at 8:15.  We were glad for the reservation because it is truly packed at night!  Not that they have a lot of room to begin with.  about 20 tables total, inside & out.

A note about laundry & packing.  I've mentioned earlier about packing light.  It is easier to do now than when I first started traveling overseas.  The Laundry in Vernazza was new and very clean & easy to use.  With a little advanced research you can figure out a place about half way through your trip to do laundry.  It really is worth it to carry around less.  Remember, we were using trains to get from place to place, and the less you have to haul up on to the train when you board, the better!

We decided to go to the restaurant/laundry early and get our laundry going in the washer before going in to dinner.  It was 5 Euro to do a load and that included the soap and fabric softener. We started our laundry and went next door.  The joint was jumpin'!  Every table inside & out was full.  Massimo and two waitress work the front of the house and his twin bother, Luca, works in the kitchen, but sticks his head out from time to time to make a comment on something his brother said.  

I ordered the Pesto Gnocchi & CJS had the Cannelloni.  The pesto is to die for here! The gnocchi cooked perfectly.  The Cannelloni disappeared off CJS's plate quickly.

Sorry, CJS got a couple of bites out to the creamy Cannelloni before I got my camera ready! Yummy

For dessert, we ordered the Panna Cotta & the Canoli.  Both were delicious but the blue ribbon goes to the Panna Cotta.  It was smooth & creamy with fresh strawberries, orange slices and a blackberry on top.  This is the dessert to order if you go.  I have had Panna Cotta many times over the years, but this was the best I've tasted, truly!

Even though the restaurant is small and packed full of dinners, you do not feel rushed.  Italians are wonderful about that.  You'll have to ask for your check in any restaurant as they do not want you to feel like you must pay and go quickly.  Everything moves at a much slower pace in Italy.  I recommend falling in to the grove with the locals and don't be in a hurry, relax & enjoy your surroundings.  It is especially fun here as the 'Canoli brothers' as dubbed by Rick Steves, put on quite the show.  Everyone woman that walks in the door is greeted by Massimo with 'Hello Beautiful!'  He is a ball of energy running around the restaurant talking to every guest, taking orders, making jokes and encouraging you to come back for breakfast!

It was a great evening, and in-between dinner & dessert we put our clothes in the dryer, so they were done by the time we were ready to head 'home' to our apartment.  

Massimo, Susan, CJS & Luca

All in all a great end to our first day in Vernazza!  Tomorrow I will write more about Vernazza and our side trips to Monterosso, Riomaggiore, Corniglia & Manarola.

Una Placevole buona sera
A pleasant good evening to you
Susan